Hydroton causing waterflow slowdown

[spaz2nite]

I have a small bed that I am testing for growing, but will expand as we move forward. The bed is 17 in wide, 24 in long, 5 in deep. Have 1 inch stand pipe 4 in high at the corner of bed. Have 2 in bell and it caps right at the top of the stand pipe. Have 3 in guard around the bell. Have it able to get to drain as long as the bed fills up in less than 5 mins, and takes 1 to drain. If I slow down flow rate, then it just starts to trickle as same incoming rate. I have 1/2 in pipe for inbound flow. The stand pipe has a 3/4 reducer that goes to 90 degree horiz and then about 10 inches and goes 90 degree down. It does take the water down to about 1 inch, but if I slow the water rate down to trickle, then it will fill up and stay at that same rate out the pipe and will not flush. It worked perfectly until I added the hydroton. I was able to set the ball valve to 15 mins fill and 2 flush.
Can someone help me please? Thank you

[Oliver]

For that size of grow bed, your 1 inch stand pipe is way too big. I would change it out to a 1/2 inch stand pipe and even that may be too big. Use the Affnan funnel design on top of the stand pipe to help the siphoning to start. Adjust your flow and check your timing to find the minimum and maximum flow and times the siphon will continue to function.

Oliver

[spaz2nite]

Thank you Oliver
I was just discussing that with my wife and we will swap out the pipe tomorrow.
I also saw where a guy had a 1/2 that then went to 1" flow tube. We had been reading that it is to go from larger to smaller to create the siphon. I guess I am wrong then? What is the Affnan funnel design please?
Thanks again.

[davidstcldfl]

Affnan's blog...
http://affnan-aquaponics.blogspot.com/2 ... l?spref=fb

[spaz2nite]

Good Morning and thanks for the reply
I am going to try the "funnel" approach.
What about the outflow pipe size?
I see that some use smaller to bigger and some use bigger to smaller.
I am wanting stay with either 3/4 or 1 inch so I can have them all attach together.
Thank you

[davidstcldfl]

I am wanting stay with either 3/4 or 1 inch so I can have them all attach together.

If you mean, having several grow beds with their own bells....tied to a common header. Then that can/will be another issue....

Make sure the header is large enough, to handle 'all' the water....If all the beds 'kick' at one time. If you don't, while one bed is draining, another may/will not be able to 'start' to drain. Been there, done that...I think a few other's here, have too...

Also 'vent' the header, just like plumbers do on drain lines.
Good luck...

[spaz2nite]

Thank you VERY much for the reply.
I guess I will have to do more research on venting the header.
I do plan to link them and will possibly have 1 or 2 in returns so they can all tap into that.
I just need to get the small bed we have to work with the hydroton with the correct timing. We ran into the issue that with just water it was able to do 15 mins total cycle.
But, with adding hydroton, we now have a fill of less than 5 mins. I would like to not have to add another pump to turn on and off if possible.

[Bioritize]

If you check my posts I went through a similar experience. Changing to 1/2" pipe on both the stand pipe and the outlet fixed my issues. I use a 3/4 to 1/2 reducer to create the funnel on the stand pipe.(Bioritize System Progress)

I also have found that an outlet that is straight down, works better than one with a 90 or a 45 bend.

Typically, to vent the header you would create a 90 turn to a "T" you would then leave the top opening open. Now if your pipes are too small here you will shoot water up the T in times of high pressure.

[spaz2nite]

Thank you also for replying
What about my current 2 inch bell that I am using?
Can I still use that and just have the 3/4 to 1/2 reducer on the 1/2 stand pipe?

[Bioritize]

The size and shape of your bell makes no difference, I do not believe, as long as it creates a seal.