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Roger L.
03-17-2014, 01:03 PM
I have been having trouble getting certain plants to start. Cauliflower is one example. Following the instructions on the starting media has been good for broccoli, lettuce and spinach. I've had moderate success with peppers but nothing with other vegetables. They give planting directions for a typical soil outdoor garden but I can't seem to come up with a source for different tactics in an indoor aquaponics system for different plants. Any suggestions?

jvision
03-17-2014, 01:07 PM
In my last system, I bought a bunch of those little peat pucks, put the seeds on them, then burried them right at the high water point in the GB. Worked great for peppers and tomatoes. Dill sprouted, but then wilted... I'm thinking they don't like wet roots. For some plants, maybe we need to shake the soil off once they get gonig? The soil is always where I found the most worms in the GB.

Apollo
03-17-2014, 04:18 PM
I tried starting my seeds in rockwool for the AP and potting soil for my organic garden...with very little luck. Now I was also using water from my FT and I think that the high Nitrates was just too much for them. Started over but this time I only used rain water, it's been about 10 days now and over 2/3 of them have sprouted and are doing fine.

eddiemigue
03-17-2014, 09:49 PM
I also tried rock wool and noticed low germination rates, but have switched over to bio-sponges (rapid rooters) and these have worked out great. Haven't tried cauliflower, but everything else that I've grown has done better in the bio-sponges.

Roger L.
03-18-2014, 02:55 PM
I'm using the rock wool cubes. Apollo, I'll try using un cycled water to start the plants and see how it goes. I'm a little concerned about adding peat to the grow bed. Seems it would just add clogging material to the grow bed.

misterguppy
03-19-2014, 08:56 PM
I also prefer the rapid rooters over the rock wool for seeds, but sprouts I put in the rockwool cylinders. For the rockwool, I germinate the seed before placing it in the cylinders. to germinate, I place the seed between a moistened paper towel and then place that carefully in a ziplock baggy. I then put the baggy in a warm dark location for 72 hours. Then using a tweezers, i transplant the sprouts to the rockwool. My chest of drawers sits over a heat vent in our bedroom, so I put the baggies in the bottom drawer. Seems to work pretty well, but still some varieties really struggle. Good seed storage is crucial too. Here in humid Missouri, some seeds don't keep well year to year.

davidstcldfl
03-20-2014, 04:23 AM
Roger, that's interesting, that you do well with spinach and ok with peppers. Those 2 seem to be the ones most people have trouble with.

I tried rock wool when I 1st started, and I didn't pre-treat it for PH. So, I have a bad opinion of it (even though it was my fault :oops: )
I have used it since, but I think sometimes it stays too wet (not enough O2..?) and small plants seem to have an issue with it.

I tried oasis horti-cubes and really like them. I use the 1x1x1 1/2 inch size. A sheet has 162 plugs. A same size ,
sheet of rock wool, has about 90 some plugs. But, the cost are about the same.

I haven't tried the rapid rooters. I'll have to check them out :?:

Roger L.
03-21-2014, 07:16 AM
Misterguppy I'll give that pre-sprouting a try. The dark area is a bit confusing though. I would think a lighted area would be better.

misterguppy
03-22-2014, 05:30 PM
As far as the dark goes, I am following the lead from our local Hydroponics store. They start theirs in the dark and some of the books I've read said the same thing. The most crucial parts to seed starting are moisture and warmth as far as I know. I also use a self made starting mix of 2 parts peat moss, 1 part perlite, and 1 part vermiculite. Potting soil does not make a good seed starting mix. If I use those plants in the aquaponic system, I rinse the mix off the roots before planting in the bed or net pots. The key is finding what works best for you.

Apollo
04-06-2014, 05:04 PM
Now that all the seeds are started, have 3 good leafs...are all planted in the AP.

1. What else needs to be done other than keeping the water at the right PH and Nitrates between 40 - 100 ppm?

2. What if any additives are you putting into the AP that is great for the plants and non-harmful to the fish?

eddiemigue
04-10-2014, 08:32 AM
A little bit of maxicrop with iron might fit the bill. It may turn your water dark for a while, but should clear up in a day or so. The need for added nutrients is also dependent on what you are growing - greens should be ok with just the fish water, whereas fruiting plants need more.

Apollo
04-10-2014, 10:04 AM
If my Nitrates are high, as long as they do not go below 80 ppm would I need to add anything extra?

Nitrates were around 200 ppm...hard to tell how high, but too high. So I started doing water exchanges to lower it but my well water has a PH of 8.4 ppm. Which brought my FT. PH up to 8.2 ppm and I did dropped my nitrates down to maybe 160 ppm.

I stopped doing the water exchanges and just planted my GB's with a lot more plants to use up my high level of Nitrates. I also back off on the fish food until the levels return to a more acceptable level.

eddiemigue
04-14-2014, 01:06 PM
Plants need more than nitrates (other micro-nutrients should definitely be present in your system) but to what degree will depend on the plant. I'd just sit back and let your plants indicate if you should supplement.